Duck hunting survivor guide
There are several primary methods in duck hunting, each with its own style and set of challenges:
Jump Shooting
Simplicity itself: you walk through duck habitat – small ponds, streams, or marshes – they take off, you shoot. Or, you can do it from a canoe or another light boat. But it’s not possible at all times and places. You need the cover to be thick enough so that the birds feel safe until you are within shotgun range, but not so thick that ducks feel safe even when you’re steps away, so why bother flying? Then, you need ducks that aren’t spooky.
Mostly, jump shooting works in early season, or when a sudden blast of awful weather forces migratory flocks to seek refuge among smaller streams or lakelets. But when the conditions are right, it can be a rewarding, close-range experience. And it doesn’t call for lots of specialized gear, beyond waterproof boots or waders and clothes that roughly match the color of the cover and are comfy to walk in.
Mallards are some of the most common ducks in the world, and a prime species for duck hunting.
Pass Shooting
Ducks are restless things who know something of good manners: they try not to eat in their bedroom, nor sleep in their dining room. In most cases, they make regular flights from the areas where they rest to the areas where they feed. Pass shooting is based on this behavior: you try to intercept ducks as they fly between feeding and resting areas. Scouting is essential, although an experienced hunter can sometimes identify a flyway just from the lay of the land. Most duck species, for example, are shy of wood, and would rather make a detour through an open area.
Like jump shooting, pass shooting requires favorable conditions – late in the season the birds may make the movement beyond legal shooting hours. And pass shooting presents some of the most challenging wingshooting scenarios in all duck hunting.
Driven Shoots
During a driven duck hunt, a line of ‘beaters’ or ‘drivers’, sometimes on boats, moves across the resting areas, forcing the birds to fly towards hunters who stand in a line at a prearranged location. This is a more organized method typically used in managed hunting areas. It is very popular in Europe, and as often as not involves artificially reared and released birds. That doesn’t make shooting less challenging, though.
This is a social and ritualized pursuit that quite a few waterfowlers perceive as too artificial for real duck hunting. But even in wild bird shooting, driving can have its place. It sometimes happens that ducks just won’t leave a safe area, and though thousands may be around, nobody gets a shot. In such situations, an improvised drive can save the day.
Two dozen of realistic mallard decoys like these are enough for a beginner.
Shooting Over Decoys
For many, this is the one and only classic style of duck hunting. This method is based on the duck’s social behavior. A flock of ducks sitting in an area suggests to other ducks that this place is safe, and offers whatever they need at the moment – food, shelter, or both. So they join in the fun rather than fly on. Hiding in a blind, setting a spread of decoys, and imitating duck vocalization with calls, the hunters try to lure ducks within shooting range. This method requires a lot of equipment and preparation, but is the most reliable and rewarding.
One of the reasons this method is so great is, if you love nature, you won’t be bored for a single minute in the blind, even if the ducks aren’t flying. Under the cover of a good blind, you can witness amazing scenes of animal life. Herons and kingfishers hunting their prey, muskrats and beavers busy gathering supplies for the winter, a sudden giant splash that may send your blood pressure sky high till you realize it was only a northern pike grabbing its dinner. If you have a camera with a telescopic lens, be sure to bring it along.
But outdoor scenes being great as they are, you will want to bring home your limit of ducks, too, and that can be easier said than done. Here’s how you do it.
Diving ducks tend to migrate later then dabbling (river) ducks.
Understanding Duck Migration
Ducks are migratory, traveling thousands of miles between breeding and wintering grounds each year. As they follow natural flyways, certain areas, such as marshes, lakes, and flooded fields, become hotspots during migration seasons. Rice fields and flooded areas are heaven sent, but any large area of water that offers good shelter, with abundant feeding hotspots such as grain fields nearby, can become a hotspot.
Different types of ducks have different patterns and preferences. Diving ducks such as buffleheads and goldeneyes, who often feed on small fish, can thrive in deeper water, while dabbling ducks like mallards, wigeons, and teals, prefer shallow areas where it’s easier for them to find water plants or mussels at the bottom. Consequently, as the shallows are the first to freeze over, the dabbling ducks are the first to migrate, while divers can stay a little longer.
From a hunter’s point of view, it’s best to hunt ducks that have only just arrived. They don’t yet know their way around, rely more on behavior of other flocks to identify better spots, and consequently are easier to fool. Once they’ve settled in, and have been shot at a couple of times, they become more sophisticated. But the migration can be unpredictable, and it may be a good idea to go out no matter what – excluding, of course, storm warnings.
Duck blinds come in many forms and shapes. Here is a “sunk box” built in the middle of the lake, camouflaged with local vegetation, that can cover both hunters and their boat.
Setting Up the Blind
On some key migration hotspots, you hunt out of permanent blinds set up by game managements, and when there are many hunters who want to hunt them, the blinds may be distributed by limited draw. In other areas, you select the location and build your blind yourself. Like in any real estate, location is king. It includes many variables, and depends on whether you’re hunting feeding or resting hotspots, but the rule of thumb is follow the birds. If you are flushing flock after flock from a particular bay, that’s where you want to position your spread.
For a toss-of-coin scenario of hunting in a totally unfamiliar area, a ‘tongue’ of land with grass or bushes that enters deep into the open water, especially if there is a shallow area to its side, is the first choice. Tall trees are usually to be avoided, as they are often used by falcons and hawks as observation posts, and ducks know that. Mind the wind, as ducks typical land into the wind, and for choice position the blind so that you would have birds at your preferred shooting angle when they approach you.
The blind should be small enough not to stand out too much, but big enough to offer you comfortable movements inside. If you’re hunting from a boat, then the boat is your blind; just be sure to cover it with a net, screens, or bits of locally sourced cover to camouflage your presence. Even if you’re using a portable blind or screens, adding a few local weeds is always a good idea.
Duck hunting doesn’t have to happen on water; fields where the flocks feed can also offer great possibilities.
Decoy Spreads
A well-placed decoy spread is what draws ducks within range. For newcomers, you’ll need a minimum of about a dozen decoys, though larger spreads are often more effective, especially on open water. There is an astonishing variety of different decoys on the market now: flippers that imitate the motion of landing birds, butts that imitate feeding dabblers, and even robodecoys that swim around. Some hunters add non-duck species like ravens or herons for more realism. Start with a dozen, aiming for lightweight, realistic-looking models. Look for floating decoys for open water, or field decoys if you’re hunting in dry areas, adding to the collection on the way.
Quite obviously, the decoys should match the species you target, but there’s a lot of freedom with that. In practice, you can use a mallard spread to hunt all dabbling ducks, and any diver spread to hunt all divers. Ducks aren’t too good at judging size, so the bigger your decoys the more conspicuous they are, and the better they work.
Arrange the decoys in clusters, leaving a landing zone or “hole” that provides an inviting spot for ducks to land. Common formations include:
– J-Pattern: Shaped like a “J,” this pattern leaves an open space for ducks to settle in the curve.
– U-Pattern: A broad “U” or “V” shape creates a large landing zone in the middle.
– X-Pattern: Best for windy days, decoys are placed in an “X” with a clear area at the intersection.
Experimenting with these spreads helps you find what works best for your area and conditions.
A simple, single-reed duck call like this one is a great start for a beginning waterfowler.
Duck Calls and Calling Techniques
Calls mimic the sounds ducks make, from gentle feeding chatter to sharp “come here” quacks. Mastering duck calling takes time, so practice is essential. Beginners should start with a single-reed call for basic sounds and focus on timing rather than volume—ducks are more likely to respond to calls that sound natural and well-timed. Stick to a few basic calls:
– Greeting Call: A series of five to seven quacks to attract ducks from a distance.
– Feeding Chuckle: A soft, rhythmic sound simulating a feeding flock to reassure approaching ducks.
– Comeback Call: Used to bring back ducks that might have veered off; it’s loud and urgent but should be used sparingly.
Retrieving
Finding and retrieving a downed duck, especially if it was only winged, is one of the hardest tasks in all hunting lore. When hunting over water, a reliable retriever is invaluable for retrieving downed ducks. A well-trained retriever will mark where ducks fall and swim out to bring them back. We’ll dive deeper into the training, care, and selection of retrievers in a dedicated post, as these dogs are true partners in the duck hunting experience.
Retrievers are some of the most popular breeds both at home and for hunting.
Guns, Ammo, And Shooting
The 12-gauge semiauto with a plastic stock, that we recommended as the first shotgun (see below), will do for starters, although if you get into duck hunting seriously, you may want to get a heavier model, to help absorb the shock of waterfowl loads. Non-toxic shot is mandatory for waterfowl hunting in North America; 4 steel would serve you for most duck hunting situations.
When it comes to shooting, knocking a duck down is hard enough, but it’s finding it that’s a real problem. Even if you’ve got a good retriever, you want the duck to be killed dead in the air, and to fall on clear water or ground, heaven forbid into thick vegetation. Avoid shooting at long distances, and mind the place where the bird is likely to drop, some strategic thinking is required here.
Most novices prefer incoming or outgoing shots, as they appear to be easier in terms of lead calculation, but crossing shots offer a better chance, as the hit area is bigger. As a flock comes nearby, select a single bird and shoot it, ignoring all the rest. Watch the bird for a few seconds after the shot; if it looks like it’s stone dead, you can try for a second one, but if it looks only winged, then follow it through. Tip: focus on the duck’s head: if it’s relaxed, the bird might be dead, but if the neck muscles are tense and the critter obviously controls its head, it’s not dead yet, and it’s best to give it another load.
A semi-automatic shotgun with a plastic stock is a good choice for duck hunting.
Essential Gear for Duck Hunting
Duck hunting, especially from a blind, is one of the most gear-intensive hunting methods. This blog already gave you some tips on shotgun, call, and decoys. A lightweight binoculars and a sturdy hunting knife are essential for any outing into the nature. Here are some other essential gear items.
Clothing
Duck hunting often means cold, wet conditions, so you’ll need layers that keep you warm and dry. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer to manage sweat, followed by an insulating mid-layer to retain heat, and finish with a waterproof, windproof outer layer.
Camouflage
If you’re hunting from a blind, it doesn’t really matter what you’re wearing, but of course it doesn’t hurt to wear something that blends with the specific environment where you’re going to hunt. Key word: specific; the pattern that kept you well hidden in green, early-season reeds, might stand out on a snowy bank and vice versa.
Waders
Waders are a staple for waterfowl hunters who need to wade through marshes, flooded fields, or riverbanks. Look for waders that are insulated if you’re hunting in cold weather, and choose those with reinforced knees and durable construction, as waders take a lot of wear and tear. Breathable options are ideal if you’re hunting in milder temperatures.
For duck hunting in tough conditions, quality chest waders with thermal insulation are a good investment.
Footgear
Choosing the right boots is essential for both comfort and traction. Many hunters prefer insulated rubber boots for water resistance and warmth. If you’re using hip or chest waders, make sure your boots fit comfortably within them. Boots with a good grip are important for walking on slippery or uneven terrain, and you’ll want them to be easy to remove after a long, wet day.
Gloves
Waterproof gloves are crucial for handling decoys, calls, and gear in wet conditions. Choose gloves with good grip and dexterity, so you can easily manage your shotgun and calls without removing them. Many hunters carry an extra pair of lighter, water-resistant gloves for improved sensitivity when handling gear or shooting.
Face Mask or Face Paint
Ducks have sharp vision, and a pale human face stands out like little else. If you don’t have a beard, face paint or mask may make sense. A good mask will also make those long hours in the cold wind much easier to bear.
Stay Safe!
Statistically, recreational hunting is a relatively safe occupation. But there are still some risk factors to take into account, and duck hunting has some specific ones. Safe handling of firearms, for example, becomes even more important when you’re in a blind with several other hunters. A poorly constructed blind may have a few twigs or branches sticking out that can catch your trigger, and so can an overly excited dog.
Speaking of dogs, when the retriever is out of the blind, you better not be shooting at all; also bear in mind that shot, especially steel shot, can ricochet from the water service, and that behind each bush or reed line there may be another hunter, an angler, or a birdwatcher.
Another level of risk is added by water. Waterfowling alone is a bad idea, as even tripping and falling while trying to set the decoys, or getting into a bog, can turn fatal if there’s nobody to help. When hunting on coastal areas, mind the tide charts.
And while it’s “the worse, the better” when it comes to the right weather for duck hunting, don’t go into extremes, don’t ignore weather warnings, and keep your eyes open. Many duck hunters lost their lives as they were caught by an unanticipated storm, flood, blizzard or cold front that froze the water and trapped them in their blinds.
Conclusion
Duck hunting requires practice, patience, and an understanding of nature’s subtleties. Shooting over decoys combines strategic setup with an appreciation for timing, calling, and reading duck behavior. If you’re curious to experience duck hunting firsthand, consider booking a guided hunt. A professional guide will have the right decoys, calls, etc., and you can learn a ton just watching the pro set up a spread, better yet lending a hand. The guide can teach you calling techniques, and provide invaluable advice on positioning and shooting. And while there are no guarantees at hunting, you’re much less likely to have a blank day, and so avoid disappointment at your first time out duck hunting.
Happy hunting, and may your first duck hunt be the start of many adventures!
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